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  • A
  • ALPACA

    large goat of the llama family living in the high Andean regions of South America

  • C
  • CASHMERE

    region of northern India producing some of the finest and softest wool

  • CARDING

    preparatory operation for spinning wool to untangle the fibers, clean them and then align them before they are spun

  • CAVIAR

    discreet pattern created by the weaving that melts away as soon as you move away from it to form a shaded color also called birdseye

  • CLAN

    du gaélique 'clann' qui signifie famille, le clan est un groupe formé d'un certain nombre de familles

  • COTTON

    Natural cellulosic textile fiber constituting the seminal hairs that grow on the surface of the seeds of the cotton plant - used according to weight for summer suits or for all-season pants - use a very heavy cotton to reduce wrinkling

  • CLUB TIE

    striped tie that used to show membership in a group

  • CANVAS

    the tailor's canvas, placed between the lining and the outer fabric, is a canvas of plant and/or animal materials used as the foundation for the construction of a jacket

  • D
  • DENIM

    (fabric from Nîmes) - very strong cotton fabric, in twill weave with indigo blue warp and ecru weft

  • DONEGAL (TWEED)

    tweed from the County of the same name in the Republic of Ireland • sometimes speckled or multi-colored

  • DOUBLE-FACE

    fabric with three elements (two warps and one weft, or two wefts and one warp), showing two different weaves on each side

  • DOUBLE STRIPE

    variant of the pinstripe with 2 parallel lines very close together

  • DRAP

    carded wool fabric in plain weave or twill - resistant fabric, in pure or mixed wool, having undergone the operation of fulling, often followed by a scraping making the surface fluffy and conferring to the fabric great qualities of thermal protection

  • DRILL

    cotton fabric similar to denim, except that it is plain because it is piece dyed

  • DUFFEL ou DUFFLE

    thick fabric of carded wool whose name comes from a city of Flanders

  • E
  • ECRU

    textile materials, yarns or fabrics which have not been washed, bleached or dyed

  • ENGLISH SHOULDER

    type of sleeve head on a jacket - important padding - the most structured shoulder, from the military uniform

  • F
  • FELTING

    fabric obtained by felting hair or wool

  • FLANNEL

    (English flannel, from Welsh gwlanen, wool) - fabric whipped and scraped to a thick, matte finish with a fluffy appearance - soft to the touch, very comfortable to wear, perfect for fall and winter

  • FRESCO

    the merino wool yarn is twisted multiple times on itself and twisted with several threads at the same time before being woven - this process gives the fabric the property of not wrinkling - clean fall, dry touch, airy and fresh - ideal for summer suits

  • FULLY FASHIONED

    knitting process allowing to knit each part of the garment in its final shape

  • G
  • GABARDINE

    tissu de laine ou de coton dont l'endroit présente une côte en diagonale très inclinée • le tissage très serré le rend relativement imperméable à l'air et à l'eau

  • GAUFRÉ

    tissu dont la surface est régulièrement déformée par une technique qui consiste à froncer un tissu à la fois dans le sens de la largeur et dans celui de la hauteur

  • GRAIN

    said of a fabric whose surface is not smooth

  • GRAIN DE POUDRE

    wool or wool and mohair fabric used for tuxedos or tails - the fabric has a subtle diagonal structure, produced from a finely combed yarn, woven in several weaves - very fine grain

  • GRÈGE

    color of a silk thread as it comes out of the cocoon

  • GUNCLUB

    small check pattern formed by a succession of colored stripes in one direction, while in the other direction there is either a similar pattern or a pattern of a single color stripe - another, different and larger tangle of checks is often superimposed on the main pattern - this pattern was adopted by an American shooting club in 1874, hence its name

  • GAUGE

    unit of measurement qualifying the thickness of a knit, the smallest being the thickest

  • H
  • HERRINGBONE

    V-shaped decorative pattern obtained by reproducing, after inversion, weaves of twill or derivatives of twill weave - this zigzag effect recalls the backbone of a herring - hence its name herringbone in English

  • HEM GUSSET

    strip of fabric binding the front and back sides at the bottom of a shirt to improve its strength by preventing the fabric from tearing at the seams

  • HOPSACK

    plain weave variation - light and airy fabric ideal for summer jackets

  • J
  • JACQUARD

    loom invented by Joseph-Marie Jacquard at the beginning of the 19th century which allows the individual control of the warp threads - by an individual selection of the needles, it is possible to obtain Jacquard designs of several colors per weaving

  • JERSEY

    knitted fabric made up of fine stitches conferring an elasticity to the garment

  • K
  • KNIT TIE

    tie made of wool, cashmere or silk threads which are twisted before being knitted, giving it its solidity and thickness - a slight ribbed edge finishes the knitted tie - if it ends in a point, it means that the material has been woven (and not knitted): it is then called grenadine - if the grenadine (silk) is very fine, it is called silk cheesecloth

  • L
  • LINING

    Fabric that is used inside a garment.

  • LAINE

    fibre à croissance continue d’origine animale (alpaga, chameau, chèvre du Cachemire, guanaco, lama, lapin angora, chèvre mohair, mouton, vigogne, yack) et utilisée comme matière textile

  • N
  • NEAPOLITAN SHOULDER

    type of sleeve head on a jacket - absence of padding - the jacket follows the shape of the wearer's shoulder

  • P
  • PLAIN WEAVE

    Simple and solid weave on which a weft thread passes alternately above and then below the warp threads - the front and back are identical

  • PAGODA SHOULDER

    type of sleeve head on a jacket - structured padding - the shoulder takes a concave line similar to the roof of a pagoda - also called shoulder con rollino

  • R
  • ROMAN SHOULDER

    type of sleeve head on a jacket - light padding - the jacket does not follow the line of the shoulder but creates a new, straighter one - halfway between the Neapolitan shoulder and the English shoulder

  • S
  • SATIN (WEAVING)

    weave where a weft thread covers at least 4 warp threads, creating a smooth and shiny appearance on one side of the fabric

  • SEA ISLAND COTTON

    a cotton variety with a particularly long and fine fiber, grown on the island of Barbados in the West Indies - limited production and certified by the West Indian Sea Island Cotton Association

  • STONEWASHED

    in the 70's, the first stone washing technique appeared: the company Marithé + François Girbaud wanted to make the raw denim fabric, then very rigid, more supple - it is by washing the jeans with pumice stones (very porous and light volcanic stones) that the fabric took on a faded, worn and aged appearance

  • T
  • TWILL (WEAVING)

    Weave forming a diagonal visible only on the right side of the fabric, generally inclined at 45°.

  • W
  • WEAVING

    the way in which the warp and weft threads of a fabric are interwoven to form a visible pattern on its surface - in knitting, this is called binding

  • WARP

    all the parallel threads, regularly spaced, arranged in the direction of the length of a piece of fabric (parallel to the edges of a fabric), as opposed to the weft which is perpendicular - the number of threads forming the warp is very variable

  • WASHED

    appearance of a fabric that has undergone one or more washes to give it an aged appearance

  • WATER REPELLENT

    treatment of a fabric so that water slides off without entering

  • WATERPROOF

    which by nature or by treatment is not permeable, cannot be penetrated, impregnated by water or by a fluid

  • Y
  • YARN TO YARNA

    wool or cotton fabric in which the " false solid " effect is obtained by successively warping and wefting a light thread, a dark thread, etc.