Key witness to the 60s and 70s, Peter Schlesinger captured his era like no other. Artists, lovers – great names or perfect strangers: his subjects dress up and down every tradition.
Lightness of the time, lightness of the dress. David Hockney revives the tradition of the Grand Tour in a corduroy overcoat and sky-blue scarf. English aristocrats dress down their Victorian coats with sequined trousers.
Bryan Ferry, W.H. Auden, Robert Mapplethorpe – Paris, London, Cannes. Writers are serious: Isherwood and Auden in beige tweedwoolen fabric, more or less rustic, woven with multicolored or sharkskin, ties or button-downs – one open button only.
Photographers abandon their shirts entirely. Eric Boman mixes white gingham, blue stripesline or band more or less wide that marks a fabric and a red cottonnatural cellulosic textile fiber constituting the seminal ha jacket with wide lapels and a slight heel. Mapplethorpe thwarts his midnight blue smoking jacket with a denim(fabric from Nîmes) - very strong cotton fabric, in twill w shirt and jeans. Only Cecil Beaton retains his collar stays: stiff collar, stiff upper lip.
Soft-shouldered tweeds reveal a rugby shirt, high-waisted brown herringboneV-shaped decorative pattern obtained by reproducing, after i trousers, pumpkin or cherry-coloured jumpers, pink, black and white Prince of WalesGlen Urquhart tile pattern overlaid with a window tile patte, heeled brogues, strong stripes, fair-isles, “Lanvin”-blue shirts, patterned V-necks, seersucker(from Indian Shirushaker, wrinkled) cotton fabric with alter thrown over t-shirts – the sudden black of dinner suits as night falls on Glyndebourne.
Andy Warhol, Rex Reed. Monte Carlo. 1974.
Celia Birtwell, Ann Upton, David Hockney, Udo Kier, Glyndebourne. 1975.
Christopher Isherwood. Santa Monica. 1968.
David Hockney, Cecil Beaton. 1970.
David Hockney. Paris. 1969.
Eric Boman, Paloma Picasso. 1971.
Eric Boman. St Tropez. 1978.
George Lawson, Wayne Sleep. Wigmore Place. 1971.
Hockney drawing Auden. London. 1969.
Mark Lancaster. Brussels. 1970.
Peter Schlesinger as an art student. 1968.
Robert Mapplethorpe. Boulevard St Germain. 1971.
- COOPER X 12« Dressed up like a million-dollar trouper/Tryin’ hard to look like Gary Cooper/Super Duper – Puttin’ on the Ritz »
- OUTER POCKETS« It wasn’t until the Industrial Revolution that sewn-on pockets, and pockets hidden within the liningfabric that is used inside a garment, became standard in clothing… »
- INNER POCKETS« They are designed to meet the needs and habits of the wearer, evolving over time to accommodate changing lifestyles. »
- STRIPES: PIN, PENCIL, CHALK, AND ROPE« A variety of the ‘pinstripe’ often found in shirt cloth but rarely in suit cloth is the ‘pencil stripe’ »