Directing fits his taste for retreat. Kitano cauterizes emotion, narrows down narration, streamlines dialogue. Hoarse voice, tight lips: in Sonatine, his character commits suicide in a rictus. His countenance and clothes then become the way to read him. In Violent Cop, a grey, white, and black tweed blazer with low notch lapels grows tattered from chase to chase; in Boiling Point, a flowered shirt and double-striped jacket undo the character’s coldness; in Sonatine, a white shirt.
Yamamoto designs the costumes for three of his films:
for Brother - a black three-button with wide volumes, a camp-collar white shirt. for Dolls - boiled wool, a fine synthetic prussian blue shirt.
for Takeshis’ - a slim black suit with frank shoulders, an oliver rain poncho.
In Hana-Bi, Brother, Takeshis’, and on the red carpet, Kitano wears sunglasses inspired by those of the anarchist Peter Kropotkin.
In his autobiography, My Dear Bomb, Yohji Yamamoto writes: “In the places where he wants a message to get across, he intentionally does not insert that message.”