SILK

Usually reserved for accessories and shirting, silk is a versatile fabric. It is smooth to the touch and drapes softly. It absorbs color easily and can be dyed in virtually any shade. Silk retains heat well when woven into thicker cloth and breathes nicely in thinner weaves. It is a popular choice for neckwear and is often used for details such as lapel facings and the trouser stripes on black-tie pants.

silk ties

Silk ribbons became popular in the 17th century. King Louis XIII of France was wearing them. Legend says the King was inspired by knotted cloth worn by the Croatian army. In 1880, Oxford University rowing clubs “invented” the silk tie, wearing the ribbons of their hats around their neck. The modern folded, triangular tie, however, is traced to New York in the 1920s. Around the same time, Parisian designer Jean Patou took leftover silk scraps, folded them into tie shapes, and wore them around his neck. The silk tie entered fashion: printed patterns, color blocks, tipping and knitted.

silk scarves

Short scarves made of silk became a popular accessory in menswear after the war, as pilots had worn these scarves to protect their necks from rubbing against the coarse wool lining of their leather jackets. The British Royal Air Force, in particular, sported a blue polka-dotted scarf that was short and unusually wide by today’s standards––the scarf fulfilled a practical function, after all. After the war, these scarves became fashionable pieces. A generation later, Carnaby Street “mods” like Paul Weller revived the silk scarf.

silk shirts

The silk shirt began as part of evening dress. A white silk shirt was often considered more elevated in English black-tie circles before the 1950s. These shirts were typically made of plain-weave, sand-washed silk, a fabric still produced today. Sand-washing gives the material a matte finish, reducing the sheen characteristic of common silk cloths. However, the 1970s became unshakably associated with silk's shiny appearance. We can picture a light, fluid, unbuttoned silk shirt in bold colors on glam icons like David Bowie, paisley-printed with ruffles on Jimi Hendrix, or paired with a louchely popped collar on disco legend John Travolta.