1980, Armani Style:
“I want men’s jackets to be sexy… I want to change the look of the men.”
“It is true that I have always loved a certain discipline, a certain cleanness of line, but it’s true that I also love to think that people dress to be sexy.”
In 1976, after years of working as a freelance stylist, Armani presented his first collection in Milan. The designer immediately imposed an aesthetic that went against the masculine fashion of the time. The Armani style was characterized from the beginning by loose volumes, a restricted palette of earth tones, and an interest in fluid materials – a vision of masculine elegance that became his signature and that the creator was about to develop for a whole decade. Armani’s approach to clothing, inherited from women’s haute couture, perhaps made him the only couturier for men.
New materials in men’s wardrobe
Moving away from the corseted suit, Armani combines luxurious materials such as cashmere with robust materials such as natural vegetable fiber of great solidity resulting from the More, Donegal woolen fabric, more or less rustic, woven with multicolored More, or wool or cotton fabric, tightly woven with fine parallel obli More. The designer also makes men’s suits in materials that were previously reserved for women due to their fluidity: flexible and resistant thread produced by the larva of vario More crepes, cotton fabric with a complex weave, it is composed of a simp More palatine, and synthetic fabrics.
Monochromatic and wrinkled silhouettes
The advertising campaigns, all signed by Aldo Fallai, show monochromatic sand-colored silhouettes. The volumes of the collections are inspired by men’s fashion from the 1930s: wide pleated pants worn with long, unstructured jackets with very wide shoulders, not lined, comfortable like a cardigan, light like a shirt.
While Americans were developing wrinkle-free poly-cotton fabrics that require no ironing, Armani showed models dressed in wrinkled linen suits.
The Armani style is born, and the wrinkles in clothing become chic.
- THE WHITE JEANS« birth of the white jeans; from a disregarded choice to enticing youthfulness and cinematic appeal »
- THE BEIGE SUITS« the suits that populairzed the urban wardrobes by lightening the silhouettes, complimented by a contrast colored tie »
- THE BATTLE OF VERSAILLES« a fashion event that dictated the transition from mere dressmakers to extravagant and modern creative geniuses »
- THE WEAR AND TEAR OF CLOTHES« in a spirit of subversion, pants with large leg openings have become a cyclical fashion trend »