(Arabic zaytūni, from Zaytūn, the Arabic name for a Chinese city) - a weave where one weft thread covers at least 4 warp threads then creating a smooth, shiny appearance on one side of the fabric - can be silk, cotton or wool

a cotton variety with a particularly long and fine fiber, grown on the island of Barbados in the West Indies - limited production and certified by the West Indian Sea Island Cotton Association

(from Indian Shirushaker, wrinkled) cotton fabric with alternating smooth blue and embossed white lines, obtained by exerting different tensions on the loom, formerly imported from India

(contraction of self edge, shortened from self-finished edge) tighter, denser and stronger weave than conventional denim thanks to the use of a single weft thread - longer and more expensive manufacturing process than conventional denim

wild silk fabric with an irregular weave, whose name comes from the Chinese province of Chan Tung - simple weave, irregular appearance, grainy texture, containing thick and tight knotted threads

effect of sharpness of a fabric of which one shaved the protruding fibres

located on the sides of the waistband, they allow to adapt the size of the pants to the evolution of its morphology

(inlaid pocket) side pocket sewn at an angle from the waistband to the seam on the side of the pants

flexible and resistant thread produced by the larva of various butterflies, in particular the mulberry bombyx, and which is used to weave its cocoon

the bottom of a pair of pants arrives unfinished in order to leave the choice of the length of the leg and the hem type - for a simple hem the fabric is folded inwards and then sewn with an invisible stitch - a kick tape (a fairly rigid cotton twill ribbon about 1cm wide, with a border on one side that forms a bead) is sewn flush with the bottom in order to reduce wear

jacket whose two sides button in the middle - the lowest button is never buttoned

woolen fabric formed by the weaving of red warp threads and olive weft threads - this contrast gives the material an iridescent appearance, oscillating between green, beige and red depending on the light, particularly enhanced when woven in a wide herringbone pattern

two-piece yoke on the back of a shirt at the shoulders, just below the collar - it allows the shirtmaker to cut the front of the shirt and the shoulders at a different angle in the weave - the front of a shirt will always be cut on the bias, to give it more flexibility and fit - but if the shoulder is also cut on the bias, the two will be aligned and the shoulder seam, connecting the two, will be weaker, causing the material to stretch and eventually break - when the yoke is split, it can be cut at a different angle, reinforcing that seam

in the 70's, the first stone washing technique appeared: the company Marithé + François Girbaud wanted to make the raw denim fabric, then very rigid, more supple - it is by washing the jeans with pumice stones (very porous and light volcanic stones) that the fabric took on a faded, worn and aged appearance

line or band more or less wide that marks a fabric

classification system of pure wools according to their thickness - Super 100's; Super 130's; Super 200's; etc. qualify the fineness of the wool fiber where each value corresponds to a fiber diameter expressed in micrometers (µm) - the higher the number of Super's, the finer the wool fiber (however, do not confuse fineness with wool quality)