HITCHCOCK’S MEN

I was an uncommonly unattractive young man – Alfred Hitchcock

Tippi Hedren, Grace Kelly, Kim Novak, Eva Marie Saint – the filmmaker’s heroines, like the publications about them, are innumerable. Few words however, to outline the men who punctuate his films. Prey to vertigo, suicide, murder, Hitchcock’s men do not know what to make of themselves.

Worried or worrying,

fake three-buttons, school-less preppies in club ties and leather-buttoned blazers, the young men: John Dall’s grey-blue stripe, Ray Milland’s end-on-end, Anthony Perkins’ smile

eerie hyper-dandyism, windsor knot, a flannel too soft to be true, the crooks: Peter Lorre’s thick corduroy, Robert Walker’s lobster tie, Cary Grant’s double-breasted pinstripe [cum glass of milk]

mother-of-pearl buttons, bead of sweat, tall figure, soft collar and utilitarian costume of the man on the run: James Stewart’s green V-neck, Gregory Peck’s unlined shirt, Laurence Olivier’s knit tie, Cary Grant’s fresco suit [again]

tweed, charcoal flannel, dry fabrics, real three-buttons, thickness without bulk of the man in the know – maturity: Paul Newman’s raglan, James Stewart’s sky-blue pyjama, Sean Connery’s herringbone, Cary Grant’s gun club [last one, pinky-swear].

act. Cary Grant. Notorious. 1946.

act. Cary Grant. Notorious. 1946.

act. James Stewart. Rear Window. 1954

act. James Stewart. Rear Window. 1954

act. Paul Newman. Torn Curtain. 1966.

act. Paul Newman. Torn Curtain. 1966.

act. Cary Grant. Suspicion. 1941

act. Cary Grant. Suspicion. 1941

act. Cary Grant. North by Northwest. 1959.

act. Cary Grant. North by Northwest. 1959.

act. Gregory Peck, act. Ingrid Bergman. Spellbound. 1945.

act. Gregory Peck, act. Ingrid Bergman. Spellbound. 1945.

act. Laurence Olivier. Rebecca. 1940.

act. Laurence Olivier. Rebecca. 1940.

act. Sean Connery.  Marnie. 1964.

act. Sean Connery. Marnie. 1964.

act. John Dall, act. James Stewart. Rope. 1948.

act. John Dall, act. James Stewart. Rope. 1948.

  • DALE COOPER
    « Against the brown of Washington state, Cooper stands out in his stark black suit-white shirt »
  • THE DOUBLE-BREASTED SUIT
    « He had on a double-breasted suit of the type then known as the pillbox; it was chalk-striped, pink on blue »
  • LAPELS
    « Trends in lapel size often mirror the economic climate: during World War II, lapels initially became smaller due to fabric shortages »
  • COOPER X 12
    « Dressed up like a million-dollar trouper/Tryin’ hard to look like Gary Cooper/Super Duper – Puttin’ on the Ritz »
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