I was an uncommonly unattractive young man – Alfred Hitchcock
Tippi Hedren, Grace Kelly, Kim Novak, Eva Marie Saint – the filmmaker’s heroines, like the publications about them, are innumerable. Few words however, to outline the men who punctuate his films. Prey to vertigo, suicide, murder, Hitchcock’s men do not know what to make of themselves.
Worried or worrying,
fake three-buttons, school-less preppies in club ties and leather-buttoned blazers, the young men: John Dall’s grey-blue stripe, Ray Milland’s end-on-end, Anthony Perkins’ smile
eerie hyper-dandyism, windsor knot, a flannel(English flannel, from Welsh gwlanen, wool) - fabric whipped More too soft to be true, the crooks: Peter Lorre’s thick corduroy, Robert Walker’s lobster tie, Cary Grant’s double-breasted pinstripe [cum glass of milk]
mother-of-pearl buttons, bead of sweat, tall figure, soft collar and utilitarian costume of the man on the run: James Stewart’s green V-neck, Gregory Peck’s unlined shirt, Laurence Olivier’s knit tietie made of wool, cashmere or silk threads which are twisted More, Cary Grant’s frescothe merino wool yarn is twisted multiple times on itself and More suit [again]
tweedwoolen fabric, more or less rustic, woven with multicolored More, charcoal flannel, dry fabrics, real three-buttons, thickness without bulk of the man in the know – maturity: Paul Newman’s raglan, James Stewart’s sky-blue pyjama, Sean Connery’s herringboneV-shaped decorative pattern obtained by reproducing, after i More, Cary Grant’s gun club [last one, pinky-swear].
act. Cary Grant. Notorious. 1946.
act. James Stewart. Rear Window. 1954
act. Paul Newman. Torn Curtain. 1966.
act. Cary Grant. Suspicion. 1941
act. Cary Grant. North by Northwest. 1959.
act. Gregory Peck, act. Ingrid Bergman. Spellbound. 1945.
act. Laurence Olivier. Rebecca. 1940.
act. Sean Connery. Marnie. 1964.
act. John Dall, act. James Stewart. Rope. 1948.
- THE MEN OF MODIANO«Writer of memory, Patrick Modiano is also the writer of fabrics.»
- THE MEN OF JEAN-LUC GODARD« the aesthetics described as “French Mod”: extensive collars on structured shirts, a bit of flair here and a touch of paisley there. »
- TRUCKER JACKET« from being synonymous with rebellion, exemplified within the punk scene and anarchist movements to symbolizing freedom and unity »
- AUGUST SANDER: PEOPLE OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY« the portrait is your mirror. No, it’s more: it’s you – August Sander »