Flannel(English flannel, from Welsh gwlanen, wool) - fabric whipped is a loose, lightly roughened weave, today made from woolcontinuous growth fiber of animal origin (alpaca, camel, Kas, cottonnatural cellulosic textile fiber constituting the seminal ha, or synthetic fibers, formerly woven from carded wool or worsted yarn. It is characterized by a plain or twillfabric with diagonal ribs and grooves of varying widths - on weave, usually brushed in single or double “plush” (a technique using a wire brush to rub the fabric, lifting the fine fibers giving it a softer feel). The twill weave or “worsted flannel” makes it possible to obtain a more nervous fabric; while plain weavesimple and solid weave on which a weft thread passes alterna flannel has a fluffier appearance, due to a looser weave.
1803: invention of flannel by Fox Brothers
Flannel was developed by Fox Brothers in 1803, a spinning mill founded in 1772 in Somerset in the south of England, which is the oldest spinning mill still in operation.
Originally intended for making workwear for Scottish peasants and labourers, the flannel production process was later refined into a more valuable fabric, suitable for making suits.
Shades of gray and chalk stripes
Wool flannels offer a rich swatch of deep grays. The scraping of the fabric makes it possible to melt the patterns like the chalk stripesline or band more or less wide that marks a fabric. A downy and erased aspect that Francis Bacon reproduced in his paintings by mixing dust from his studio with oil paint.
Now restricted to the winter wardrobe, flannel can be worn from autumn to spring by adapting its weight or its composition. During the first part of the 20th century, spinners produced light pearl gray or off-white flannels intended for making leisure suits for going to the seaside, playing tennis or cricket.
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- COOPER X 12« Dressed up like a million-dollar trouper/Tryin’ hard to look like Gary Cooper/Super Duper – Puttin’ on the Ritz »
- OUTER POCKETS« It wasn’t until the Industrial Revolution that sewn-on pockets, and pockets hidden within the liningfabric that is used inside a garment, became standard in clothing… »
- INNER POCKETS« They are designed to meet the needs and habits of the wearer, evolving over time to accommodate changing lifestyles. »
- STRIPES: PIN, PENCIL, CHALK, AND ROPE« A variety of the ‘pinstripe’ often found in shirt cloth but rarely in suit cloth is the ‘pencil stripe’ »