Michel Foucault and the turtleneck have become almost synonymous, with the philosopher having claimed it as his signature style.

Yet, the black turtleneck was already a garment adopted by the artistic movement of Saint-Germain-des-Prés in the 1950s, serving as a symbol of irreverence and rebellion. Foucault’s rebellious spirit, however, manifested in him often choosing a cream-coloured version.

The turtleneck is an old style of knitwear. It likely originated in medieval Europe, probably as protection against armour. It later gained popularity among sailors as a shield against the harsh conditions at sea. Fishermen too adopted the turtleneck for similar practical and warmth-related reasons.

For a long time, the turtleneck was fashionable among the aristocracy, often adorned with ruffles. By the 20th century, it had fallen out of favour in the upper classes and the fashion houses and become widely associated with workwear.

It was this garment, now popular, that attracted so many young Parisian intellectuals, to be worn alongside corduroys and work jackets. Yet, while Sartre wore his with a jacket in a more conventional manner, Foucault hybridised it with a black leather jacket, borrowed from the Black Panthers he encountered in the 1970s. He chose white, form-fitting, as a nod to his increasingly political engagements. The young philosopher, once seen in sharp suits and preppy Oxfordgrained fabric with colored warp and white weft - durable, b More shirts, made way for an innovative and self-assured intellectual, crafting a unique silhouette that was deeply personal and highly biographical.