James Baldwin, writing about literature, music, film, theatre, boxing, childhood, and of course racism and the American empire from which he sought refuge in France at the age of 24, has established himself as one of the greatest figures in American literature. His prose is unique, incisive, precise, sometimes flamboyant, diagnostic, and often revealing. His writing, like his approach to fashion, respects the essential while daring to break the rules – clear, lucid, and familiar, yet punctuated and powerful. Baldwin’s sentences, like the purposeful minor details of his clothing, stand out while blending into familiar rhythms and modes.

The foundations of Baldwin`s signature look are classical structured suits combined with playful accessories. He often wears silkflexible and resistant thread produced by the larva of vario scarves or handkerchiefs casually tied into a tie. When it comes to his suits, rumour has it that he asked his tailors to be ‘excessively precise’, which translated into sharp collars, lapels, and shoulder lines that perfectly complemented his choice of thick scarves and very wide ties.

Baldwin’s style is rooted in two cultures: White America and the Black community in which he was rooted. It is a natural departure from the traditional Ivy League look. Baldwin shared many of his ‘style’ sensibilities with friends like Nina Simone and Miles Davis, both of whom were determined, sharp and uncompromising in their music, but at the same time familiar and playful. Similarly, Baldwin’s fashion, an echo of the Harlem Renaissance, is a combination of the familiar and the daring.

Arriving from New York in 1948, he felt more liberated in Paris, where he experimented with flashier outfits. Later, he moved to the village of Saint-Paul de Vence, in the south of France. There, he dressed in brighter colours, while retaining his signature style. The breast pockets of his shirt contain an assortment of pens and his spectacles, revealing his profession and intellectual activity. Relaxed and laid back, even in old age he remained agile. His patent loafers suggest that he is ready to return to the city, politics and literature at any time.