“In [Joy Division’s] songs, ordinary life achieves an epic grandeur. There’s no bombast or emotional theatrics; instead there’s a modernist starkness as pared down as a Samuel Beckett play.” – Simon Reynolds, The New York Times
Joy Division (originally titled Warsaw) formed in Salford, Greater Manchester, in 1976. After a slight re-shuffle on drums, it was Bernard Sumner, Peter Hook, Stephen Morris and Ian Curtis who conceived a uniquely stark and static sound – leading to a rise in melancholic post-punk across Northern England.
Defined by machinic pulses, low-key synthesizers, existential lyrics and a restless energy, Joy Division’s music was like the mindscape of Manchester – a crumbling industrial city with a dystopian environment. Style was born from this. Framed by stripped back silhouettes, bleak colour palettes and regimental postures, Joy Division used utilitarian uniforms as protection from their violent sounds.
A breakdown of their united style:
For the underlayer: white crew neck t-shirts. Simple, practical and ever so slightly exposed.
For the shirt: short sleeved ones sealed with ultra-skinny ties; long sleeved ones semi unbuttoned and finished with military-style pockets; patterned ones featuring monochrome stripesline or band more or less wide that marks a fabric.
For the overlayer: V-neck lambswool sweaters and chunky sleeveless pullovers. Colour palette: black, white, grey.
For the overcoat: by day, three options: British pea coat, single-breasted herringboneV-shaped decorative pattern obtained by reproducing, after i blazer, double-breasted trench. By night, zero in sight.
For the trouser: two options: dark jeans or dark twillfabric with diagonal ribs and grooves of varying widths - on trousers. Straight cut, flat front. Shirts tucked into waistbands, silhouettes sealed with slim leather belts. A strapped-up stance for all.
For the footwear: battered zip-up boots, battered lace-up boots, well-worn brogues. Leather designs for intoxicating nights.
And the overall result: Militaristic silhouettes used for radical radio transmission. Eternal power, eternal energy, eternal effect.
Joy Division first appearance on TV. Granada Reports, Granada TV, September 20th, 1978.
CUMMINS, Kevin, phot. CURTIS, Ian, chant. Manchester, United Kingdom. 1979.
VAN ROSSEN, Lex, phot. CURTIS, Ian, chant. Manchester, United Kingdom. 1980.
JOY DIVISION. An Ideal For Living album. 1978.
CUMMINS, Kevin, phot. JOY DIVISION. Manchester, United Kingdom. 1979.
CORBIJN, Anton, phot. JOY DIVISION. Lancaster Gate station, London, United Kingdom. 1979.
SAVAGE, Jon. Shimmy poster. Manchester, United Kingdom.1979.
- LAPELS« Trends in lapel size often mirror the economic climate: during World War II, lapels initially became smaller due to fabric shortages »
- COOPER X 12« Dressed up like a million-dollar trouper/Tryin’ hard to look like Gary Cooper/Super Duper – Puttin’ on the Ritz »
- OUTER POCKETS« It wasn’t until the Industrial Revolution that sewn-on pockets, and pockets hidden within the liningfabric that is used inside a garment, became standard in clothing… »
- INNER POCKETS« They are designed to meet the needs and habits of the wearer, evolving over time to accommodate changing lifestyles. »