THE BOY-SCOUT SHIRT

The Boy-scouts of America (BSA) are an association founded in 1910 by William D.Boyce. The once small movement quickly became bigger following the two world wars, under the impulsion of a exacerbated patriotic fervour.

From the outset, and with the desire of order and thoroughness, a uniform is imposed on the young boyscouts. It is inspired by the military, the color chosen being a specific khaki, a unique shade that was the one of the XIXth cavalery fight jackets.

Creation of the Boy Scouts of America uniform

In 1922 the complete BSA’s uniform is modified to differ from the army’s uniforms. It is then standardised in 1940 in all states. If boyscouts trousers have been changed many times over the years, the shirts, however, kept the same pattern from 1930 until the 80s.

The boyscout shirts strikes out by their robustness and their functionalism :

two pockets with buttoned down flaps on the chest;

thick cotton twill, first khaki and then olive green;

Corozo buttons (natural resin), quickly replaced but metal buttons, less expensive and more resistant;

escutcheons sewn on the sleeves and under the chest pockets.

Reuse of the boy scout shirt by youth and musicians

Because of its sobriety, the shirt is worn downtown, first by the former boyscouts themselves and then by the anti-establishment youth. The majority of these shirts were cut in a pattern designed for children, the sleeves were thus systematically too short and worn rolled up.

Following the advice of Jane Birkin, Serge Gainsbourg – whom’s closet was restricted to essentials – bought one on a trip to Los Angeles. Under a Renoma pinstripe jacket or a golden buttons blazer, the shirt never leaves him, always widely open.

The boyscout shirt just embedded a new uniform.

BOWIE, David, act. OSHIMA, Nagisa, dir. Furyo – Merry Christmas Mr. Lawrence. 1983. 123 min. 

2-Jane-Birkin-et-Serge-Gainsbourg-dans-leur-maison-de-campagne-du-Perche-1979

GAINSBOURG, Serge. BIRKIN, Jane. Le Perche, France. 1979.

3-levolution-de-luniforme-boy-scout

Boy Scouts of America uniform evolution from 1919 to 1980. undated.

4-publicite-pour-les-uniformes-Boy-Scout-1933

advertising for the Boy Scouts of America uniforms. 1933. 

5-Yves-Saint-Laurent-lors-de-louverture-de-sa-premiere-boutique-rive-gauche-Paris-10-septembre-1969

SAINT LAURENT, Yves. Paris, France. September 10th, 1969. 

  • THE DOUBLE-BREASTED SUIT
    « He had on a double-breasted suit of the type then known as the pillbox; it was chalk-striped, pink on blue »
  • LAPELS
    « Trends in lapel size often mirror the economic climate: during World War II, lapels initially became smaller due to fabric shortages »
  • COOPER X 12
    « Dressed up like a million-dollar trouper/Tryin’ hard to look like Gary Cooper/Super Duper – Puttin’ on the Ritz »
  • OUTER POCKETS
    « It wasn’t until the Industrial Revolution that sewn-on pockets, and pockets hidden within the lining, became standard in clothing… »
0
    Your Cart close
    Your cart is emptyReturn to Shop
    * all orders before 18/12 (11AM CET) will be delivered no later than 24/12 • a slight delay could be expected between 25/12 - 05/01
    This is default text for notification bar