James Tissot is a XIXth century painter, often introduced as the fashion and elegance painter. Son of a textile shop owner and a milliner mother, the artist took a particular care for fabrics and colours rendering or garment details. A thoroughness betraying the influence of Flemish Primitives on his work.
The artist paints the Second French Empire’s aristocracy and bourgeoisie, but his career extends on both sides of the Channel : probably the most English of French painters, and the most French of English painters.
Portrait of a dandy painter
Degas, a close friend, achieves in 1867 a portrait of James Tissot all dressed up : light grey woolcontinuous growth fiber of animal origin (alpaca, camel, Kas More flannel(English flannel, from Welsh gwlanen, wool) - fabric whipped More trousers, black shoes, long black coat, anthracite waistcoat, large black silkflexible and resistant thread produced by the larva of vario More bowtie. On the table is placed a top hat. In short, the perfect attire of a gentleman from the second-half of the XIXth. Canvases and the easel are relegated to the background : the artist is represented far more as a dandy than as a painter.
The Cercle de la rue Royale : a fashion illustration
In his tableau The Circle of the Rue Royale, James Tissot delivers a synthesis of the Second French Empire men’s fashion. It is a group portrait painted in 1866, gathering twelve members of the Circle. Aristocrats wear a black garment that is standardizing : frock coat are shorter, the waist is more lose-fitted. Trousers, if not black, are striped or checked. Button boots, top hat and thin cane. Waistcoats allow for originality by their fabric or their pattern, but shirts are more minimalists, except for a long collar that can receive a bowtie.
Sole exception : Charles Haas, at the extreme right, is the only commoner in the scene. He wears a color and a garment that contrast. He will inspire Proust his character Charles Swann in his novel In Search of Lost Time.


DEGAS, Edgar, art. Portrait de James Tissot. 1867-1868. oil on canvas. 151,4 × 111,8 cm.

TISSOT, James, art. Comte Etienne de Ganay in Le Cercle de la rue Royale. oil on canvas, 174,5 × 280 cm. 1866.

TISSOT, James, art. Comte de Ganay in Le Cercle de la rue Royale. 1866. oil on canvas, 174,5 × 280 cm. 1866.

TISSOT, James, art. Comte Julien de Rochechouart in Le Cercle de la rue Royale. oil on canvas, 174,5 × 280 cm. 1866.

TISSOT, James, art. Charles Haas in Le Cercle de la rue Royale. oil on canvas, 174,5 × 280 cm. 1866.
- BRUMMELL« the most sober, the most strict, the least extravagant man »
- THE GRAPHIC T-SHIRT« from a history that does not follow fashion but the needs for expression to being a part of collective conscious and an underground culture »
- FOUCAULT / TURTLENECK« though the black turtleneck was serving as a symbol of irreverence and rebellion in 1950s, Foucault’s rebellious spirit manifested in choosing a cream-coloured version »
- SILK« known for its versatility & smooth texture; silk defines an era, embraced by style legends like David Bowie and Jimi Hendrix »