MAKING HUSBANDS #3 : COATS, JACKETS, TROUSERS

All our “shouldered” garments are made in the same workshop in the suburbs of Naples. A first workshop was founded in 1954. The company took advantage of the post-war economic miracle and hired some forty experienced tailors. In the 70s, the factory worked for the most notorious Italian luxury houses.

In 2006 the workshop was taken over by the founder’s grandson, Eduardo. The emphasis was then placed on modernizing the workshop while preserving the traditional tailoring savoir-faire.

THE CRAFTSMEN

Eduardo has succeeded in preserving artisanal production processes while relying on modernized pattern-making tools. The workshop gathers almost as many men as women, with a harmonious age distribution that is able to protect and develop these original skills.

THE HAND

Suits and coats are handmade, fully canvased in a tailor’s canvas made of cotton and horsehair that extends over the entire garment. The canvas – or traditional construction – offers a more precise fit, a greater comfort and an extended lifetime. It requires a great knowledge and a very qualified workforce.

These garments are made of many handmade details: the milanese lapel buttonhole and the loop under the collar (an embroidery used to hold the stem of a flower), the collar and lining’s folded seams. As they are more subject to wear, the top of the sleeves buttonholes, the ends of the trousers pockets, the after dinner split and the breast pocket are reinforced with travetti, a kind of handmade embroidery that acts as a stopping point.

cutting table. Naples, Italy. 2019. 

cutting workshop. Naples, Italy. 2019.

workshop. Naples, Italy. 2019. 

workshop. Naples, Italy. 2019. 

workshop. Naples, Italy. 2019. 

fabric warehouse. Naples, Italy. 2019.

assembly line. Naples, Italy. 2019. 

fabric warehouse. Naples, Italy. 2019.

  • THE MEN OF MODIANO
    «Writer of memory, Patrick Modiano is also the writer of fabrics.»
  • THE MEN OF JEAN-LUC GODARD
    « the aesthetics described as “French Mod”: extensive collars on structured shirts, a bit of flair here and a touch of paisley there. »
  • TRUCKER JACKET
    « from being synonymous with rebellion, exemplified within the punk scene and anarchist movements to symbolizing freedom and unity »
  • AUGUST SANDER: PEOPLE OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY
    « the portrait is your mirror. No, it’s more: it’s you – August Sander »
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