The trench coat was invented in 1914 by Thomas Burberry in order to equip the British army officers. It first bears the name of « tielocken », before being named « trench coat » during the First World War.
1880 : Invention of the trench coat by Thomas Burberrys
The trench coat is a double-breasted coat with raglan sleeves : a sleeve construction that allows for great freedom of movement. It is made of cotton gabardine, a very tightly woven fabric invented in 1880 by Thomas Burberry. This weave makes the fabric waterproof.
GAINSBOURG, Serge. Alpes d'Huez. Decembre, 1981.
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A Jacques Prevert par Emile Savitry. Atelier de Paul Grimault.
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Anatomy of a British officer's coat
The trench features multiple elements that reminds of its military past : epaulettes to attach military ranks, belt rings to attach hand grenades. The back storm flap allowed the rain water to run-off and could be fold to make a hood. The front storm flap was to protect the shoulder from the gun recoil. Its wide collar was to protect the neck from bad weather. The overcoat is holed with large pockets, opened inside and outside for more ease and to hide topographic map and munitions. Finally, multiple straps at the sleeves, the back of the collar and at the waist prevented the wind, the water and the mud to enter in the coat.
Humphrey Bogart dans Casablanca de Michael Curtiz. 1942.
A movie garment
In 1942, Humphrey Bogard nonchalantly wears it in the movie Casablanca. The trench coat, until then viewed as a military garment, becomes iconic and enters the civil wardrobe. In the movies, it is wore by policemen, lawyers and private detectives.
The trench coat generalizes and gets on the shoulders of artists and poets to become a wardrobe classic.
