the after dinner split designates the V-shaped notch located at the back of the waistband of the pants in order to give ease – in particular during the passage from standing to sitting position

domestic variety of the guanaco (ancestor of the llama), bred in the alpine pastures of the Andes (South America) for its long and woolly fleece

(from Angora, city in Turkey, today Ankara) – rabbit whose hair allows the manufacture of a glossy, very soft and warm yarn – not to be confused with the wool of the angora goat which, after spinning, is called mohair

the Blake assembly is a single shuttle stitch seam made with a waxed thread to join the upper, the insole and the outsole – “undercut” means that the groove in which the seam is made is then closed to protect the thread of the seam, so it is invisible from the sole

fold formed by two flat folds facing each other

full grain calf leather – chrome tanning – noble, smooth, soft and delicate

crệpe fabric made with silk or wool yarn – light and fluid

undercoat of the “bactrian” camel coming from the deserts of Mongolia, taken by combing during the moult in spring

the tailor’s cloth, placed between the lining and the outer fabric, is a cloth made of vegetable and/or animal materials used as a foundation for the construction of a jacket

preparatory operation for spinning wool to untangle the fibers, clean them and align them before spinning them