wild silk fabric with an irregular weave, whose name comes from the Chinese province of Chan Tung – simple weave, irregular appearance, grainy texture, containing thick and tight knotted threads
HUSBANDS JOURNAL
Archives: Glossary Terms
SHAVED
effect of sharpness of a fabric of which one shaved the protruding fibres
SIDE ADJUSTERS
located on the sides of the waistband, they allow to adapt the size of the pants to the evolution of its morphology
SIDE SLANT POCKET
(inlaid pocket) side pocket sewn at an angle from the waistband to the seam on the side of the pants
SILK
flexible and resistant thread produced by the larva of various butterflies, in particular the mulberry bombyx, and which is used to weave its cocoon
SIMPLE HEM
the bottom of a pair of pants arrives unfinished in order to leave the choice of the length of the leg and the hem type – for a simple hem the fabric is folded inwards and then sewn with an invisible stitch – a kick tape (a fairly rigid cotton twill ribbon about 1cm wide, […]
SINGLE-BREASTED JACKET
jacket whose two sides button in the middle – the lowest button is never buttoned
SOLARO
woolen fabric formed by the weaving of red warp threads and olive weft threads – this contrast gives the material an iridescent appearance, oscillating between green, beige and red depending on the light, particularly enhanced when woven in a wide herringbone pattern
SPLIT YOKE
two-piece yoke on the back of a shirt at the shoulders, just below the collar – it allows the shirtmaker to cut the front of the shirt and the shoulders at a different angle in the weave – the front of a shirt will always be cut on the bias, to give it more flexibility […]
STONEWASHED
in the 70’s, the first stone washing technique appeared: the company Marithé + François Girbaud wanted to make the raw denim fabric, then very rigid, more supple – it is by washing the jeans with pumice stones (very porous and light volcanic stones) that the fabric took on a faded, worn and aged appearance