poplin is a fabric that has a fine, tight ribbing; it is absorbent, soft and slightly silky – the term is a distortion of papeline, as the fabric was created in the papal city of Avignon, France

wet cloth placed between the iron and the fabric to be ironed for steam ironing – used to mark the crease of a pair of tailor pants

Glen Urquhart tile pattern overlaid with a window tile pattern that can be blue, green, red or black – it also includes houndstooth armor tiles formed at each corner – these tiles are connected by vertical and horizontal stripes representing dummy armor

armhole wider than the classic armhole – instead of being attached to the shoulder, it goes up to the neckline

(inlaid pocket) a more functional derivative of welt pockets – usually cut on the bias, with simple welt – used on coats

type of sleeve head on a jacket – light padding – the jacket does not follow the line of the shoulder but creates a new, straighter one – halfway between the Neapolitan shoulder and the English shoulder

(Arabic zaytūni, from Zaytūn, the Arabic name for a Chinese city) – a weave where one weft thread covers at least 4 warp threads then creating a smooth, shiny appearance on one side of the fabric – can be silk, cotton or wool

a cotton variety with a particularly long and fine fiber, grown on the island of Barbados in the West Indies – limited production and certified by the West Indian Sea Island Cotton Association

(from Indian Shirushaker, wrinkled) cotton fabric with alternating smooth blue and embossed white lines, obtained by exerting different tensions on the loom, formerly imported from India

(contraction of self edge, shortened from self-finished edge) tighter, denser and stronger weave than conventional denim thanks to the use of a single weft thread – longer and more expensive manufacturing process than conventional denim