One can’t talk about Tommy Nutter without mentioning two London streets : Savile Row and Abbey Road.
Nutter and Edward Sexton’s shop, « Nutters of Savile Row » is, in 1969, the first new shop to open in over a century on this historic street of English tailoring. In the shop were displayed, among other things, a Punch and Judy puppet theatre, a mural of Egyptian ruins, colourful ostrich feathers and empty bottles of champagne hanging at the door in place of bells.
The place reflects the stylistic revolution carried by Tommy Nutter. He designs a jacket whose two sides overlap when closed - the right side More featuring oversized lapels — that even protrude out over the sleeve caps — tightens the waist and the chest, adds length and emphasises the shoulders. Fabrics and colours are bolder and more vivid.
If he plays with the cut, Nutter remains nonetheless truly respectful of English tailoring tradition. He firmly believes in the power of the suit and conciliated it with the revolutionary fashion trend of the sixties. He declares, in an interview given in the early nineties : « Although this is a far cry from today’s philosophy where jeans, T-shirt and sneakers are de rigueur, a young man would be hard pushed to find a better investment than a handmade suit, to give himself a lift up the ladder of success ».
Clients, wether they belong to British high nobility or the press, are dandy teenagers from the East End or artists, all flock to Nutters. Among them are Mick Jagger and his wife Bianca, Cher, George Harrison, Twiggy and David Hockney. To Elton John, « Tommy Nutter glamorised Savile Row and made it accessible ».
His success is crystallised on the Beatles’ « Abbey Road » album cover, on which 3 out of the 4 members are wearing a suit made by Tommy.
- THE WHITE JEANS« birth of the white jeans; from a disregarded choice to enticing youthfulness and cinematic appeal »
- THE BEIGE SUITS« the suits that populairzed the urban wardrobes by lightening the silhouettes, complimented by a contrast colored tie »
- THE BATTLE OF VERSAILLES« a fashion event that dictated the transition from mere dressmakers to extravagant and modern creative geniuses »
- THE WEAR AND TEAR OF CLOTHES« in a spirit of subversion, pants with large leg openings have become a cyclical fashion trend »