fabric obtained by felting hair or wool
HUSBANDS JOURNAL
Archives: Glossary Terms
FLANNEL
(English flannel, from Welsh gwlanen, wool) – fabric whipped and scraped to a thick, matte finish with a fluffy appearance – soft to the touch, very comfortable to wear, perfect for fall and winter
FLAP POCKET
pocket closed by a flap sewn above the opening – sometimes embellished with a button – used for external and internal pockets of coats and jackets, can also be used on some pants – flap shapes can vary: straight, triangular or rounded
FRESCO
the merino wool yarn is twisted multiple times on itself and twisted with several threads at the same time before being woven – this process gives the fabric the property of not wrinkling – clean fall, dry touch, airy and fresh – ideal for summer suits
FULLY FASHIONED
knitting process allowing to knit each part of the garment in its final shape
GABARDINE
wool or cotton fabric with a very slanted diagonal rib on the right side – the very tight weave makes it relatively air and waterproof
GAUGE
unit of measurement qualifying the thickness of a knit, the smallest being the thickest
GOODYEAR CONSTRUCTION
Blake stitching is a double seam – a first shuttle stitch joins the upper, insole and welt (a strip of thin leather sandwiched between two thicker leathers to form a stronger seam) – a second vertical seam (called Goodyear) joins the welt to the outsole – easier to resole
GRAIN
said of a fabric whose surface is not smooth
GRAIN DE POUDRE
wool or wool and mohair fabric used for tuxedos or tails – the fabric has a subtle diagonal structure, produced from a finely combed yarn, woven in several weaves – very fine grain